A few weeks ago, GRIP hosted a test event for the Pro Climbing League (PCL) — a brand-new competition format where professional climbers go head-to-head on identical boulders. The first athlete to reach the top wins; if no one tops, the win goes to the athlete who reaches the highest hold first.
GRIP was chosen as a test venue due to our setting team and unique facilities. As the only gym in Europe with two adjustable Lemur x Kilter Slab walls, we were able to create mirrored boulders for the athletes to compete on side by side!
Preparation and testing
The test event ran for five days: four days of preparation and filming, followed by one day of competition simulation.
During preparation, the GRIP setting team worked closely with Kilter setters to create and refine mirrored boulders. This setting process differed significantly from regular setting, using tools such as rulers, templates, and markers to ensure the boulders were completely identical. Once the boulders were ready, the team focused on efficient resets. This was a crucial element of the competition format, since boulders had to be removed and replaced with new, identical problems between rounds.
The preparation phase also brought several high-level athletes into the gym. Shauna Coxsey, multiple World Cup winner and Olympian, and Erin McNeice, one of the UK’s rising competition climbers. They helped testing the boulders and creating footage for the event. Much of the week was captured by a Red Bull media crew, so there was a lot going on with all the cameras and athletes.
Competition simulation
The competition simulation took place on December 18, with both a men’s and women’s category. The knockout format included qualification rounds, semi-finals, a third-place match, and a final. Athletes had up to four minutes per boulder, unless the boulder was topped earlier or their opponent finished first. Because competitors climbed simultaneously, the format introduced a clear strategic element. Athletes had to balance speed with efficiency, deciding when to push, when to rest, and how to respond to their opponent’s progress on the wall. This head-to-head structure created a different dynamic from traditional competition formats — both for athletes and spectators.
Test event results
Men
- Paul Brand
- Briq Middelburg
- Simon Kunneman
Women
- Bibi Hamers
- Nuria Brockfield
- Amber Schiffeleers
Thank you to everyone involved in making this test event possible. The first official Pro Climbing League event will take place in London on February 28. Keep an eye out for more content from the PCL test event on YouTube and Instagram.
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